Survival Thai

I'll start with a confession: I'm a language freak.

I speak English, Finnish, Japanese, French and Spanish with various degrees of fluency, and I'm working on adding Mandarin to this list. My Russian's getting a little rusty but I can still decipher Cyrillic. Without any formal lessons I've picked up survival-level German, Swedish and Malay. The Hebrew and Arabic alphabets I learned just for yucks, although I can't really speak either language. And I can recite a few poems in Slovene by heart, quote subway announcements in Czech, and puzzle out Malti orthography.

So what do I think is the most difficult language I've encountered so far? No doubt about it: Thai.

Phonetics

Pronouncing Thai correctly is very tricky for the average Westerner. First, you have the 5 tones (mid, low, falling, high, rising), which differentiate otherwise identical-sounding syllables and can mean the difference between "near" (klai, mid-tone) and "far" (klâi, falling).

Second, you have a slew of consonants to deal with. Every guide to the language proclaims that there are 44 of the little buggers, but it's not quite that bad: yes, there are 44 letters (more on that later), but only around 20 distinct sounds. Thai consonants have one distinction difficult for the English speaker, namely that between aspirated (with-a-puff-of-air) and unaspirated (without-a-puff) consonants. The aspirated ones match those normally used in English, and are usually transcribed as ph, kh, and th despite being pronounced "p", "k" and "t"; the unaspirated ones are found in English combinations like "spat" and "skip", and are usually transcribed p, k, t despite being pronounced something akin to "bp", "g" (hard), and "dt" respectively.

Still there? Then we have the vowels, and (if we count diphthongs) there are no less than 28 of them. Actually, English does feature most of them, but the average native speaker has never been taught to distinguish the front 'a' of man (ae in Thai) with the back 'a' of car (aa in Thai), and in Thai vowel length is also important. And then you have just weird sounds like the oei of kàthoei (transvestite), helpfully described as "as the u sound in hut, only more closed, plus i" by one of my guidebooks.

Writing Thai

The Thai writing system is basically alphabetic (an abugida, to be precise), so it doesn't quite match Chinese or Japanese in sheer complexity, but for an alphabet it's remarkably difficult to read and write.

First of all, there are 44 consonants, 32 vowel signs and 4 tone marks to learn. Vowel signs are scattered before, above and after consonants; often several are required for a single vowel sound. Conversely, if the sound is a long O, no sign at all is needed. Most consonant sounds have multiple letters, choosing the one to use depends on the etymology of the word and the tone of the syllable. For example, to write "tîo" (เตี่ยว) you write เ (E) + ต (T) + ย (EI) + ว (W), then slap a bar with notch on top ี of the T to indicate there's a long I sound too, and finish with a little dot ่ to note the tone. And don't forget to choose the right one from the 8 different letters all pronounced "T" (2 unaspirated, 6 aspirated).

But this was at least phonetic. Many Thai words, especially those imported from Pali, retain archaic spellings that no longer correspond to their pronunciation. And then the cruelest blow of all: Thai does not use spaces between words. A sentence or name will be an uninterrupted flow of Thai characters, figuring out where one word ends and the next begins is left to the reader.

Survival Thai: Phrases

Don't despair! While learning fluent Thai is a formidable task, learning enough to get by is quite achievable. In strictly limited contexts, you'll be understood even if you mangle your pronunciation and tones. Learn the following by heart and you're off to a good start.

Conventions

But first let's lay down the rules. I'm using Lonely Planet's transcription system, which is the same as the common Royal Thai General System of Transcription with the following changes:
  • 'o' as in 'bone', 'aw' as in 'saw'
  • 'ch' as in 'church', 'j' as the 't' of 'rapture'
Long vowels are doubled. Aspirated consonants are written with "h", so thai is "tai", not "thigh" and phom is "pom", not "fom". Tones are denoted as follows:
  1. a -- mid
  2. à -- low
  3. â -- falling
  4. á -- high
  5. ã -- rising
Of course, to get these down pat (or even approximate) you'll need to hear a native Thai pronounce them, but mâi pen rai.

Basic Civilities

sawàtdee
Good day.
kháwp khun
Thank you.
mâi pen rai
No problem.
You're welcome.
Too bad.
Not my problem.
laa kàwn
Goodbye.
All of the above can and should be postfixed with khráp if you're male and khâ if you're female. The gender of the person you're speaking to does not matter!

Taxi Essentials

Generally speaking, Bangkok cabbies don't speak a single word of English, so knowledge of the following three phrases will make your life much easier.

trong pai
Go straight.
liaw khwãa / sáai
Turn right / left.
jáwt thîi nîi
Stop here.

Shopping

Most any shop accustomed to dealing with farangs will have a calculator on hand for tapping out prices... but if you want the best price, you'll have to haggle in Thai.

kíi báat?
How much?
Most Thai numbers bear a marked resemblance to the Chinese numbers, especially Cantonese (marked in parentheses). They're also built up in the same logical way, so that "69" is "six-ten-nine" (hók-sìp-kâo). The only irregularities are that 11, 21, etc end in -ét and that 20 is yîi-sìp.

   1 nèung
   2 sãwng
   3 sãam (saam)
   4 sìi (say)
   5 hâa
   6 hók (lok)
   7 jét (chat)
   8 páet (bart)
   9 kâo (gow)
  10 sìp (sup)
  11 sìp-ét
  12 sìp-sãwng
  20 yîi-sìp
  21 yîi-sìp-ét
  30 sãam-sìp
 100 rawy
1000 phan
Note that Thai also has its own set of digits for writing, but (fortunately) these are very rarely used.

Survival Thai: Grammar

Enough rote memorization! Despite the formidable phonetics and writing system, Thai grammar is surprisingly simple, and with the following you can be grunting your very own phrases of Tarzan Thai in no time at all.

Sentence patterns

Thai is an SVO language. As in Japanese, the subject can often be omitted. Adjectives follow nouns: kaeng daeng is curry red, chaa yen is tea cold. Two basic particles that are very useful are mãi and mâi:

X mãi?
Do (you) X?
mâi X
(I) do not X
X na khrap/khâ
No real meaning, but makes you sound polite (always a good thing) and like you've been around the block a few times (reducing the risk of being ripped off).

Verbs

Thai verbs do not conjugate, just plunk them into a sentence. Tenses and modes can be indicated with particles, but other than the basics listed above we won't get into that here.

jai
"to yes"
First an oddball: the Thai word for yes (jai) acts like a verb. mâi jai ("not yes") means no, and jai mãi? ("yes?") means "isn't it?". Other Thai verbs are more like their English counterparts:

mii
to have
pai
to go
dâi
to be able to (can)
ao
to want
châwp
to like
Note that, again like Chinese, a question ending in a verb should be answered with the same verb. Alternatively, khráp and khâ alone are polite affirmatives, along the lines of the Japanese hai.

Putting It All Together

mâi ao
I don't want.
mâi ao na khráp
No thank you.
châwp lady thai mãi?
Do you like Thai women?
châwp mâak
I like very much.
pai Patpong, dai mãi?
Can you go to Patpong?
khun süay mâak-mâak! kii baat?
You're very beautiful! How much?
The management takes no responsibility for the results if you try to use these.

References

Lonely Planet Thai phrasebook
3 months in Bangkok