A training device used by climbers to strengthen their fingers. You can think of the fingerboard as a highly evolved chinup bar. Instead of having a big bar to grab onto the resin board has fingerpocket holds and edges of various sizes. The fingerboard may also have a large hold known as a jug. Instead of pullin up on the bard (as with a chin up bar) one just holds the small edges and hangs from between five seconds to a minute. Best results are obtained by reaching failure on a hold (i.e. you have to let go) within twelve seconds. This might seem somewhat futile but the exercise is repeated with a long rest between reps and the result is to increase finger and forearm power by forcing you muscles into a state of higher recruitment.

Extreme care must be taken to avoid injury, overuse leads to tendonitis and that fucks up your climbing. The aim of a fingerboard is to develop fingers of steel. Other exercises which achives the same effect are a system board, a Bachar ladder or Campus boarding