It's a town of about 30,000 people at the confluence of the Dadu and Liusha Rivers - just up the road is where the Red Army forced a crossing of the roaring Dadu River at Luding Bridge during the Long March.

To the south the Great Cool Mountains - independent homeland of the Nuosu (known in Mandarin as the Yi) people, slaves and all, amidst an ocean of Han farmers, right up until the communists went in in the fifties.

This is Fulin, county town of Hanyuan, south west Sichuan. This is a small town.This is a big world, bigger than I dreamed. Wherever I go, I drag my ego. Getting a bit tired of being the most important person here. Or there, or anywhere.

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