In reference to siren
's writeup, I just have one thing to add as a Canadian west coast climber
. Over here, what you deemed an "open crimp
" we call an "open hand" grip
implies just the "closed crimp
" you talked about.
Open hand grips are typically weaker than the closed crimp you talk about, but that is not always the case. A friend of mine, when we boulder, can always hit long slaps in a full crimp (crimp is taken to be a closed crimp in this case to avoid confusion). He doesn't need to reset his grip or anything, he's already in a full crimp. However, when I attempt the same move, I can never hit it in a crimp. I always fall out to an open hand grip, then when my body stops swinging around I switch to a crimp grip (closed).
Such is life I guess. I blame the campus board for my open hand grip being the unconscious preference.
Note: NEVER campus in an closed crimp grip, unless you enjoy grinding your knuckles out of existence in the space of an hour.