The bias cut
was one of the revolutions
of modern fashion
, introduced during the 1930's.
The formal definition
states that "pattern pieces are turned vertically so that the warp
threads are both on the diagonal
This technique of sewing the fabric at angles creates a natural
elasticity. This was a sharp contrast
with the 1920's, where fashion was loose and straight.
While many designers sought to conceal a woman
's chest, waist, and hips in the 1920's, the bias cut helped reintroduce curves
into popular fashion.
Although more curvacious
, the bias cut still emphasized the slim
figure popular in the 20's. The clinging and revealing draped fabric demanded that a woman be tall and thin
, as the typical bias cut dress was tight in the torso, with a slim waist and hips, and a belled skirt
. Many bias cut gowns
would swoop low
in the back with a cowl or halter
neckline. They also contributed to the demise
of the corset
-- these dresses were usually too revealing
to fit one underneath.
As war and fascism
gained momentum in Europe
, more severe and utilitarian fashions began to take hold.
Ellie Laubner, Fashions of the Turbulent 1930's