The
bias cut was one of the
revolutions of
modern fashion, introduced during the 1930's.
The formal
definition states that "pattern pieces are turned vertically so that the
warp and
weft threads are both on the
diagonal'.
1 This technique of sewing the fabric at angles creates a
natural elasticity. This was a
sharp contrast with the 1920's, where fashion was loose and straight.
While many designers sought to conceal a
woman's chest, waist, and hips in the 1920's, the bias cut helped reintroduce
curves into popular fashion.
Although more
curvacious, the bias cut still emphasized the
slim figure popular in the 20's. The clinging and revealing draped fabric demanded that a woman be
tall and thin, as the typical bias cut dress was tight in the torso, with a slim waist and hips, and a belled
skirt. Many bias cut
gowns would swoop
low in the back with a cowl or
halter neckline. They also contributed to the
demise of the
corset-- these dresses were usually too
revealing to fit one underneath.
As war and
fascism gained momentum in
Europe and
Asia, more severe and utilitarian fashions began to take hold.
1 Ellie Laubner,
Fashions of the Turbulent 1930's