I come from a rice eating family. We just don't do bread that often. But I've got a cussed streak that likes to do things the hard way. I've long wanted to bake gorgeous crusty bread that makes the whole house smell good. The toasty smell of the sesame seeds as your teeth crunch through the crust into the warm, soft interior.
Sadly, I've made a vast quantity of truly inferior bread. However, I've finally found something that works for me. Ironically, it's a sourdough. That thing which is a lifeform all its own. That other mouth to feed that lurks in the back of the refrigerator, mocking me when I forget to feed it.
You see, sourdough starter may require more work to maintain than a packet of active dry yeast, but the bread that comes of it is so much better! It doesn't stale as quickly, and the texture is unmatched. My starter is not very sour, but the resulting bread hits the nose with a tang and a richness that causes me to drool just thinking about it. And there is an element of faith in it as well. That this little vat of batter I've been nursing along with judicious applications of flour and water will actually deign to lift my dough into a plump, delectable, toothsome loaf. It's magic, really. Alchemy in its most satisfying incarnation.
So, here's my recipe. It's scaled to proportions that a rice eating household can look at with complacency. It's also a basic bread, something that can easily accept additions. Me, I like it best with sesame.
Makes 15-16 2 oz. rolls or 2 small loaves.
NOTE: 1/8 cup (1 oz. by volume) of all-purpose flour is about 0.2375 oz. by weight. I’ve simplified the quantities in the recipe a bit, though, so the figures don’t match up. Don’t worry, it’ll all work out in the end! And, while it may be confusing, just remember that all ounce measures for dry ingredients refer to weight. The times noted are about how long each step will take, including any fermentation time.
8 hours in advance of when you plan on preparing the dough:
6 oz. (by weight) sourdough starter
3 oz. (by weight; or about 1/2 c. + 2 tbsp.) whole wheat flour Note: you can use only all-purpose flour for the entire recipe, if you want. I prefer the complexity and results of a blend.
Mix well. It should be a very stiff dough, and keep its shape. Cover with plastic wrap so it doesn’t dry out, and leave at room temperature (70-75°F) for 8 hours (no more than 10, or else the yeast will be exhausted). Use a medium bowl, large enough for the finished dough after rising.
After 8 hours, it should look about the same, perhaps a bit larger. But when you poke it with a wooden spoon, it will be filled with a network of small and large bubbles. Proceed with your bread recipe from here.
- Dough ingredients:
9 oz (by volume) water, room temperature
6 oz (by weight, or 1 1/2 c.) bread flour A high protein flour that is particularly good at gluten formation
9 oz (2 c.) unbleached all-purpose flour
1.5 tsp. salt
1-2 tbsp. olive oil for coating the bowl (or use sesame oil from the top of the sesame paste)
2.5 oz. (about 3/4 c.) sesame seeds (1 oz. lightly toasted and cooled for the dough, 1.5 oz. for topping)
1.5 oz. (a big glop on a soup spoon works for me) sesame paste
a bit of beaten egg white for getting the seeds to stick
Making the dough: (about 5 hours before baking)
30 minutes - Mix & Knead
Add the water to the levain and break it up well with a sturdy spoon or paddle. Add one or two handsfull of bread flour and stir until well mixed. Add the salt and any optional ingredients, stir them in, and then starting with the bread flour add more flour a few handsfull at a time until the dough is thick and getting hard to stir. You shouldn’t have needed to use all the flour at this point. Using some of the remaining flour, flour your kneading surface well and turn your dough out onto it. Scrape all the little sticky bits out of the bowl, 'cause you’ll be using the bowl again.
Knead the dough, adding flour as necessary to keep it from sticking to the board and your hands. Knead for 15-20 minutes, until the dough keeps its shape with almost no settling when formed into a tight ball. Do not skimp on this step. This is where chewy, light loaves are made or broken. Try to add as little flour as possible into the dough after the first 10 minutes or so. Shape it into a tight ball and then set it aside while you prep the bowl.
Shake out any loose bits and generously oil the bowl. Put the dough in smooth side down, then turn it so that the whole ball is coated with oil. Cover it with a damp cloth or plastic wrap and set it in a draft free place that is about 75-78°F.
2 hours - 1st Rise.
Let the dough rise for about 2 hours until it has increased about 25%. Sourdough isn’t like breads made from active dry yeast, it won’t puff up hugely during the proofing. However, if you poke it, it will be soft and you’ll leave a well defined dent. If it has risen to this state before 2 hours, either put it in a cold spot until you’re ready for it, or go to the next step immediately. If it hasn’t risen to this state, put it in a slightly warmer spot for another half hour, then proceed. If your house is very cool, around 65°F or less, you can also just make each rise twice as long. Only do this if your dough seems very cold and sluggish, or else the yeast will be exhausted before it hits the oven. Hungry, energetic yeast will give you strong oven spring when the yeast warms up and bursts into activity. This is what gives you high light loaves, that last 10 minutes of frantic rising in the glare of the oven. So, don’t let the yeast wear itself out before then.
30-40 min. - Dividing/Shaping
Deflate the dough and pull it out of the bowl, knead it briefly to incorporate the oil and to squeeze out the bubbles. The oil will help keep the dough from sticking, but use just a bit of flour as necessary. Cut the dough into 2 to 2 1/8 oz. portions for rolls or cut it in half for 2 small loaves.
If making rolls, shape immediately: Knead them into dense balls and place seam down on a generously floured surface to rise (cornmeal or semolina are also good for flouring at this point, as they won’t get absorbed easily into the dough).
If making loaves, separate the dough into 2 equal portions, and knead into dense balls. Round loaves can proof at this point, but if you’re making rectangular loaves let the dough rest for 30 min. before shaping. If making rectangular loaves or using loaf pans, shape the dough into logs (press into a flat oblong about the desired width, then roll up along the long side, and place seam side down). Cover the dough with plastic wrap or a damp towel.
1:45-2 hours – 2nd rise (proofing)
Let rise for about 2 hours in that same 75-78°F spot. An hour before baking, preheat the oven to 450°F. Place a basin of water in the bottom of the oven, make sure the rack is in the middle. Use a baking stone if you have it.
Rolls: 25-30 min. per batch. About 15 min. before the 2 hour proofing time is complete, take the rolls and cut deeply across the tops, 1/4 to 1/2 an inch deep, with a razor or very sharp knife. If coating with sesame seeds, brush the tops of the rolls with egg white and sprinkle generously. If using a cookie sheet, make sure the rolls are at least 1.5 inches apart. If using a baking stone, remember that distance for when you put them in the oven, directly onto the stone. Cover prepared rolls until they are ready to bake, especially if you are working in batches. Bake until deep golden brown. Do not underbake them! The crust needs to be deep golden brown to stay crisp and characterful when cool.
Loaves: Cut the top of the loaf deeply, down the middle for loaf pans, several diagonal slashes for logs, and cross-hatched for rounds. Bake 20 min, then lower the temperature to 400°F and bake 30-40 min. until the loaves sound somewhat hollow when thumped on the bottom. They should be deep golden brown. Remember, free form logs bake faster than loaf pans and rounds! However, do not underbake the loaves. Check every five minutes if you have to. A loaf tends to look darker in the oven than out. Let it get dark. The crust is what suffers most in an underbaked loaf, don’t let sogginess happen to you!
Remove the bread, place on a rack to cool. Rolls can be eaten almost immediately, although it’s a good idea to let them cool for about 10 minutes first. Loaves should be permitted to cool to room temperature before cutting unless you plan on eating the whole loaf right away. If you are planning on eating it all, again, let it cool for about 10 minutes first. This lets the interior finish any residual cooking, and it won't dry out as quickly when you break into it, and it steams and fogs up your glasses as you salivate.... Oh, um, sorry! Where was I?
I like to eat rolls hot, with some sweet butter and homemade strawberry preserves, or perhaps some pear butter or apple quince butter.
This recipe is what I’ve come up with after mucking about with Bread Alone (Daniel Leader and Judith Blahnik, William Morrow and Co., NY, 1993) for a while. It’s an informative recipe book full of an abiding passion for delicious bread.
If the weather is cool, I usually have a sourdough culture going. I'm happy to send a culture of sourdough starter anywhere in the US. Check my homenode to see if I have any, or msg me if you'd like some.