At one time the sartorial arbiter for gentlemen, it lost the way after WWII. Lacking a stylish frontman like Edward VIII (the Duke of Windsor), the influence ceased. It has always been the ultimate in British bespoke tradition. You bespeak! it is bespoken! and you walk out of a Savile Row shop in all your bespoke glory down to your dark-brown lace-up semibrogue with the perforated cap toe. Word.