Meorav yerushalmi (or any one of umpteen other transliterations, Hebrew is a pain), literally "Mixed Jerusalem" but usually translated as "Jerusalem mixed grill", is the official fast food of the Holy City.

Descriptions of the stuff tend to sound distinctly unappetizing, as the food consists of chopped chicken heart, liver, spleen and other mystery meat grilled together with a few bits of actual lamb and maybe an onion or two. The mixture is then spiced up (the details vary and every restaurant guards its recipe zealously) and, if you were wise enough to request it, slapped into a huge chunk of fresh laffa bread. (Pita is a poor substitute, mainly because it's not big enough!) Top it off with a little hummus, chips and salad, and you have an extremely tasty and filling snack -- nay, meal -- for peanuts. And I'm serious: you don't have to be an offal freak like me to enjoy this stuff, the chopping blends all the bits together and the spices make it taste sublime.

The best place to try meorav yerushalmi is unsurprisingly Jerusalem, more specifically Agrippas Street in the Mahane Yehuda shopping area, where competition and sheer volume keep prices low and quality high. Disregard scruffy interiors and pick a place where the locals eat (Sima is pretty dependable), and avoid, at all costs, the touristy joints in the Old City.

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