The hallmark of good pizza is a crust that you can't help but eat. You devour the slice like a rabid wolverine, only to savor the delicate, tender crust. Some pizza places feature toppings on the edge, like sesame seeds or garlic. They do this, though, just to cover up their less-than-adequate crust.

Fine pizza crust is an art form in itself. Even the best pizza can be ruined by a mediocre crust. Conversely, the most mediocre pizza can shine if it's got a delicious crust.

A particular pizzeria I frequent has acceptable pizza with an outrageous crust. It's tender, well-cooked (yet doughy), and has an intriguing flavor not often found in pizza crust -- almost sourdough, as if they use white wine in their dough.

I'm about to sound biased: if you don't live near New York, you don't have a prayer of getting pizza crust like this. It's true.