An astonishingly ugly city, full of Communist-style squat block buildings, and a few trees stabbed here and there. Otherwise, everything is very dusty. There are fairly substantial Chinese neighborhoods but they are as desolate and depressed as everything else. The drive from the airport is probably better than anything you'll see in Lhasa itself, except the palace.

Inhabitants of Lhasa include: resentful or enterprising Han Chinese, poor and/or aggressively enterprising city Tibetans, tall Tibetan nomads, beggars, rich American tourists, rude German tourists, hippie/New Age pilgrim-tourists, Tibetan religious pilgrims, and the mangy dogs that roam the streets and congregate at the temples. Oh yes, and a lot of heavily armed Chinese soldiers. Be warned, they do not have a sense of humor.

Across from the Potala is a large public square, usually full of tourists having their pictures taken. On one side of the square there's a disco. Another part of Lhasa has a large outdoor market. Tibetan souvenirs are cheaper in Nepal, though. Buy a hat anyway, you'll need it; even in Lhasa, the sun is blinding.