Uppsala is a smallish city about 45 minutes' train ride from Stockholm. Uppsala Universitet, the oldest university in Sweden, dominates the area, making the city seem more like a college campus than a place where people live and work. In the center of the city is the Domkyrka, the largest cathedral in Sweden. Even this curmudgeonly little agnostic was awestruck by the beauty of the place, and was compelled to write a prayer in the guestbook, to the God I was gradually losing faith in.

Just across from the Domkyrka is the Museum Gustavanium, where you can find all sorts of awesome stuff on the history of Uppsala, right down to before the Iron Age, when apparently bearded guys in furry loincloths beat each other over the head with handaxes and skewered each other with spears in a manner that foreshadowed the ubiquituous Turkish-owned kebab and pizza joints that are sprinkled liberally throughout the country.

North of Uppsala is Gamla Uppsala, Old Uppsala, an archaeological site with a number of mounds, in which are buried the aforementioned Iron Age loincloth-wearing brawlers.

The city itself is absolutely beautiful and worth going to, especially if you're unused to a certain cliched Old World charm juxtaposed with trendy modern sleekness. I come from a place where practically no building is more than a century old, and all of a sudden, I'm attending a lecture on genetics and sociology in a building that was apparently built back in the 15th century. Utterly mind-boggling.

A short bus ride away is the town of Flogsta, where all the college students live. The buildings are all hideous high-rise apartment blocks built during the 1960s. Notable customs of the strange inhabitants of this land include the 'Flogstaskriket', the 'Flogsta scream'. At ten in the evening, most every evening, people gather on the rooftops and let loose with a blood-curdling yell. Debate rages on over the origin of this custom, but I am told similar shenanigans go on in Lund.

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