A newly-discovered genetic group of coffea arabica
"This new group represents a previously unknown group of coffee genetics that has the potential to reshape the coffee world for decades to come,"
—Qima coffee
The last great coffee taste discovery for fans of speciality coffee, Gesha, may have to step aside. Genetic research work carried out in Yemen involved genetically fingerprinting 137 Arabica samples across and area of 25,000 square kilometers,¹ and one group was identified as having a far superiour flavour. James Hoffmann describes it as full of jammy, dark fruit flavour,² and whilst I haven't tried it yet, I imagine it as a kind of super-Yirgacheffe in its fruitiness. The main reason I've not yet tried it is that it's not yet reaching the major market. Yemenia coffess are currently being tested and tasted before auction. A recent Alliance for Coffee Excellence auction had the top-scoring coffees selling for up to $US200 per pound. A bag at retail prices would be around $120; that would translate to over 50¢ for a cupsworth of roasted ground coffee at home, even if it were available.
Whilst coffee as we know it probably originated in Ethiopia, Yemen was the first place it was extensively cultivated and traded. The Yemeni port of Mocha, of course, is synonymous with coffee. Sadly, the major coffee-growing areas are in the Northern mountains, controlled by the Houti rebels, hence potentially problematic for getting this new coffee out into the world in any quantity. As the Middle East is currently embroiled in proxy warfare, and Yemen is in the US's military sights, it may be quite a while before Yemenia hits the streets and common folk like me get to try it without breaking the bank.
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¹ https://dailycoffeenews.com/2020/08/24/newly-discovered-arabica-genetic-group-yemenia-enters-the-global-market/
² James Hoffman interviews a Yemeni coffee specialist