A training device used by climbers to strengthen their fingers. You can think of the fingerboard as a highly
evolved chinup bar. Instead of having a big bar to grab onto
the resin board has fingerpocket holds and edges of various
sizes. The fingerboard may also have a large hold known
as a
jug. Instead of pullin up on the bard (as with a
chin up bar) one just holds the small edges and hangs
from between five seconds to a minute. Best results are obtained by reaching failure on a hold (i.e. you have to let go) within twelve seconds. This might seem somewhat futile but the exercise is repeated with a long rest between reps
and the result is to increase finger and forearm
power by
forcing you muscles into a state of higher recruitment.
Extreme care must be taken to avoid injury, overuse leads to tendonitis and that fucks up your climbing. The aim of a fingerboard is to develop fingers of steel. Other exercises which achives the same effect are a system board,
a Bachar ladder or Campus boarding