It is not often that we patronize a chain restaurant. It's also extremely
rare that we'd patronize a place so full of kitschy devices in the decor and on
the cleverly-worded menu. (In the business it's called "menu-tainment.") We were
quite surprised with the quality of the food and the service; so much so it
deserves a place in my little collection of E2 restaurant reviews.
A big star for great service. An anecdote is in order. The restaurant is now
offering take-out service. We entered the place not in the proper front door but
by mistake walked into the take-out entrance (although, thoughtfully, they've
set aside a few parking spaces for take-out very close to this door, something
it occurred to me would benefit my own take-out customers). The young man just
inside had a station with a computerized cash register and television monitors
focused on the take-out parking spaces. If you give your credit card number, you
needn't even get out of your car to pick up your order. Normally I'd criticize
people too lazy to get out of their cars and go inside to pick up a bag;
however, this is probably a godsend to anyone who's handicapped etc. and has
trouble getting out of the car.
The point I'm getting at, by the way, is that we'd entered the wrong door and
the hostess/greeter station was quite a way around the corner and on the other
side of the building. Now, this bumpkin could've merely pointed and given a few
directions and we'd have eventually found a greeter. But to my astonishment and
certainly to his credit, he got up and walked us to the hostess station
and indicated to her that we'd just arrived (through the wrong door — but heck,
the kid walked us to the right place). I learned long ago, I believe from a book
about the Ritz-Carlton hotel chain, that one never "points" a
customer in the right direction; one assures they get there by taking
them there. This is the Ritz's number one rule about persons asking for a rest
room (as I guess they seek to protect one from the embarrassment of having those
all around them hear an employee cry out "it's three doors down on the left!")
Food Full of Flavor
Our server warned us that most of the menu items are very heavily seasoned,
and that she should be consulted should we want something bland. We own a
Sichuan restaurant so we merely thanked her and said "bring it on!"
The "Blooming Onion" is one of the things they're famous for. The onion's
chopped in a special machine (the menu lies and says "hand-carved" — but it ain't) so that it
can then be dusted with flour and seasonings and is then deep-fried. The result
looks like a huge brown Chrysanthemum. This delectable but fattening tidbit
comes with a zippy mayonnaise sauce.
New England-style (creamy) Clam Chowder was some of the best we'd ever
tasted. They didn't spare the clam juice nor the clams. It also hadn't been
scorched or otherwise compromised.
Lump Crabmeat Cakes were sweet, delectable, and not overcooked. The
accompanying remoulade sauce was very, very good.
Caesar salad must include shrimp or chicken (we didn't bother to ask if a
plain one was offered). The dressing is quite creamy and redolent of garlic. Asiago
cheese is here in abundance. The chicken breast was juicy, full of flavor and
Then came the steaks. Prime meat that's been marinated in a spicy but not
overpowering fashion, cooked obviously at high temperature. Doneness is assured
by the server via description of the various stages thereof. How they get this
meat so tender is beyond me. I've paid twice as much for a sirloin steak and
it's not been this good. I could've cut it with a butter knife. Two side orders
are offered with each entree steak. Haricots were fresh, bright green
and crispy. Garlicky mashed potatoes were delectable and included bits of skin
(we like that; after all, that's where all the nutrients are.
The value was superb. The largest steak on the menu, a Porterhouse, is only
$26. They exceeded our expectations with every single dish. Even the warm
pumpernickle loaf brought at the beginning was a delectable treat.
We opted out of dessert. The desserts were the usual culprits; chocolate
cake, a sundae, and cheesecake. Coffee was very good and a great way to finish a
meal this substantial. I'm a coffee perfectionist and this stuff was good and
hadn't sat in the pot too long.
There's a tiny list of sandwiches and burgers that are even more a value than
the entrees. Of course, this list is tucked in the back of the rather
long-winded menu. The burger is sirloin; and very tasty. And those crafty folks
have a use for the bits of the "Bloomin' Onion" that fall off; they put them on
their house special burger. It's so delectable it must be a sin to eat.
The drink menu starts with the usual cloyingly sweet culprits, Cosmopolitans,
Margaritas and the like. The selection of beers is outstanding, however, for
those who like their beverages on the dry side. Wines are nothing special, but
there are at least two whites and two reds worth going for. The rest is
bag-in-box plunk. Delightfully, there is a vast array of "spirit free"
We plan on visiting again soon; a different location, however, to get a feel
for a place under different management. But judging by the Outback nearest us,
it's a great dining experience and a very good value.
3210 Berlin Turnpike, Newington CT 06111