The word Balmoral ("Bal"), in shoe terminology, refers the way
certain shoes tie up, also known as closed lacing. Picture a shoe
(please note that we are specifically talking about dress shoes here) with the toe up. Now superimpose a capital
"T" on top, with the vertical part of the T at the opening between the
eyelets. In a Balmoral shoe, the horizontal part of the T is where
the flaps for the eyelets (the "quarters") would be sewn down, with the
vamp on top. When properly tied, only the tip of the tongue can be
seen on a Balmoral. This is as opposed to a Blucher shoe, which has
open lacing, wherein the quarters are not sewn down at
the top at all, and can flap open. Because of the way a Bal is sewn, the part of the shoe around the ball of the foot can only be one
circumference and is not adjustable; therefore, people with narrow or
wide foot can find it more difficult to fit. A good illustration of a Balmoral shoe can be found
here, and an
example can be found
here.
In the
world of traditional fashion, only Bals may be worn with a suit;
Bluchers are relegated to less formal wear, such as with a blazer or
sport coat. However, this is often disregarded, particularly in the
US, where it is not uncommon to find Bluchers and even loafers paired
with a suit. Still, the Balmoral is considered the dressiest kind of
shoe. Shoe terminology does tend to differ from country to
country, and even shoemaker to shoemaker. For example, in the UK,
the Bal is commonly known as an Oxford and the Blucher as a
Derby. In the US, however, the term Derby is not used, and both
Balmoral- and Blucher-style shoes are known as Oxford shoes. However, in
both countries, the words "Balmoral" or"closed lacing" should convey the desired style of shoe.