This is an analysis of the (modern shortboard) skateboard deck.
The modern style of skateboard deck first started to be seen in the late 1980’s. It has a fairly symmetrical shape when viewed from above, like a plank with rounded corners. Skateboard decks are mostly made out of maple plywood, with seven layers being the standard composition. However, recently decks have started to come out with 5,8 and even 9 layers, purporting to have less weight or increased strength and ‘pop’.
To create a deck the individual ply’s are cut to the correct width and then placed in a mould with epoxy glue between the layers. They are ‘cooked’ for around thirty minutes to allow the glue to melt and bind the layers together, much like a snowboard. This gives the skateboard its ‘shape’.
Once they are removed the nose and tail must be shaped and the edges rounded off. In a high quality establishment this shaping will be done by hand, which is probably why they cost so much. After the construction of the deck is complete an artistic design will usually be painted on the bottom and holes drilled through to allow trucks to be attached.
Overview of a deck:
On the bottom of the deck one will usually find some form of design or graphics. This usually shows which company the deck was made by and, if endorsed by a specific rider, the rider it is designed for. When performing modern ‘street’ freestyle slides these graphics are quickly worn away into an incomprehensible blur.
On the top of the deck there will either be a smooth layer of plywood or some griptape. If there is no griptape then it needs some put on it (but that’s another node).
There are various common sizes to skateboard, each of which may be favoured by a different rider. Most skateboards are 30-32 inches in length, but this is not what concerns most users, that is the width.
The widths of decks usually range from 7.25 to 8.25 inches in blocks of 0.25 inches. A narrower deck is usually seen to have less durability, but it will be lighter and easier to spin in the air, making it good for flip tricks. A larger deck will be more stable and durable, but the user will have to put in more effort to make it go where he/she wants it to.
As well as the width, the shape of the board is very important.
Nose/Tail – These are the rounded off ends of the board and where the users back foot will be a lot of the time. The main factors are the shape (pointy/round) and the size. A smaller pointy nose/tail will give better ‘pop’ and angle for flip tricks when used by a proficient rider. A larger rounded nose/tail gives more margin for error, especially if the user has big feet. Most noses/tails are very slightly concaved, allowing the users feet a better fit or ‘feel’ of the board.
Concave – This is the one that everybody’s interested in. The concave runs along the middle part of the deck in between the nose and tail. Concave gives the users feet a better grip on the board and helps when performing spinning aerial manoeuvres. Strangely, when doing flip tricks it is regarded as better to have a slight or ‘mellow’ concave. The concave also affects the stiffness of the deck, as a flatter concave will allow more flex, but have less strength.
In the end, deck choice comes down to what feels good to the user, regardless of what is generally accepted. It pays to try out many different shapes and sizes until one is found that feels perfect.
Note: I ride an 8” board with a huge nose/tail and it feels good!