Trail Dust is your basic good old Southern downhome cookin'. There's plenty of steak and potatoes to go around, of course. There is also the obligatory plate of ribs, sides of greens and corn, and rumor has it, fatback. The picnic tables are lined with the finest red and white checked plastic around, peanut shells are encouraged on the floor, and the waitresses call you "hun." The restaurant boasts only the best, corn-fed beef money can buy cooked over an open grill using mesquite logs. Not being one to sit and chow down on some flesh, I'll just take their word for it. There is live music and lots of two-steppin' and boot scootin' every Friday and Saturday night.

A cryptic sign hangs above the door of the barn-restaurant: "This Ain't No Country Club!" There's a policy at Trail Dust that some don't know. People who bring new-comers there often deliberately neglect to tell their guest about the "No Necktie" law. Now, them's good folk at Trail Dust, so the sweet hostess will probably warn the person before they walk in with their tie on. If you're told to take it off, though, do it or else your tie will be cut off and tacked to the wall with your business card on top for all the restaurant to laugh at your obstinance. You'd think with such fair warning that the walls wouldn't be lined with rows and rows of hacked ties and business cards, but they are. It could be the free drink you get for being a good sport.

There are five Trail Dusts in the DFW area and two around Denver. Y'all have been warned.