Some new Thai place: Expertly prepared Thai food contains little or no broken glass. A well trained and experienced chef has many ways to achieve an exciting texture contrast without it. But I’m being bitchy and high-maintenance. There were only three or four pieces (only one that was really sharp), and they were just in one of the curry dishes. It wasn’t the Panang curry, thank God. That was smooth and rich with potatoes and coconut milk and no glass.

The spring rolls were wonderfully crisp searing-hot flutes stuffed with fresh vegetables and something that was not glass. They were delicious with some kind of sweet liquid with little red pepper flakes in it. The crab Rangoons were entirely recognizable, puffy golden bonnets tucked around warm sweet white cheese stuff that dripped onto my shirt. There was nothing silicaceous in the steamed white rice.

For dessert, my friend enjoyed a fresh and tender sugared donut labeled “POLAR FISH,” and a lychee nut. Our drinks were kept cheerfully refilled with the correct beverages and crunchy cubes of genuine ice. The decorative tropical fish were perky and well fed, and the attractive placement of sequined elephant pictures had been seen to. One thing I know: no one has ever died from eating there. The county health department gave it a B, which is a damned good grade – a passing grade. I’m an educated adult. I can pick out my own glass.