ly read a couple of articles in wine publication
s which seem to suggest that, if you're in search of
a Cabernet Sauvignon
that displays "varietal trueness
," you have to look to Washington State
. Now, the idea that there should be some kind of ground state
is not so far fetched
: it is one of the most moldable
grapes, and tends to take on the character
of the region where it's grown. A Bordeaux
, for example, tastes much different than a Cab
from Napa Valley
Anyway, I decided to examine the "varietal trueness" claim, even though my ability to taste critically is limited by my relative inexperience. This wine was excellent, and I immediately caught a glimpse of why wine writers tell you to look to Washington: this $13 Hogue offering (from grapes grown in the Columbia Valley) was a happy medium between the more tannic wines of Napa Valley and the fruity Cabs of Sonoma.
Well, on to the wine: This was a terrific Cab. The deep red color, flecked with brick tints at the edges, suggests that the wine is ready to go. The aroma is a subtle blend of fruit (perhaps hints of blackberries) and an oaky vanilla. The taste was very well balanced: low acidity, moderate but ripe tannins, [solid but not in-your-face fruit. The finish was quite long and pleasant, faintly echoing of cherries. In short, this was a complex yet easy to drink red wine, and at a good price to boot. I've already bought another couple of bottles to stash, and I hope to buy more before this vintage disappears from the shelves.
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