Tsumami Kanzashi, literally "tsumami" pinching a square piece of fabric into a formed shape, and "kanzashi" hairpin. This is a traditional Japanese art form that has been in use for over 200 years. Used to decorate meiko, the geisha apprentices since the Edo period.
There is a very traditional and rigid structure around wearing kanzashi. There are many different kinds, and the type and location can indicate status. Kanzashi are becoming a very popular fashion accessory not only among kimono wearing Japanese, but among the general population around the world. While the kimono wearing society in Japan (geishas, maikos, tayu, yujo) must pick their kanzashi according to the season and holidays, everyone else is free to wear whatever they think is lovely. No emphasis is placed on the location of choice for the general population either, pick one that coordinates with what you're wearing.
I found a few websites that sell these, made out of kimono silk for a lot of money, so I decided I would look into making them myself. After pouring through three different tutorials, I finally figured it out. What follows is my own version of the directions.
For the tsumami kanzashi you will need:
- fabric (cut into about 1x1 inch squares)
- starch, rice is prefered
- a hot glue gun
- bobby pins, clips or hairpins of desired shape
- something to poke the fabric
I practiced the general form on an index card cut to size.
1. Fold the square in half, to form a triangle.
2. With the right angle of the triangle
forming the top, fold the other two sides up (independently) toward the top to form a miniature
3. Turn this over.
4. With the middle fold forming a vertical
line down the back, fold the two opposite corners of the square in toward the middle. It is important that they meet exactly.
5. Turn over again. The closed end will become the rounded top of one petal
. For this part, you will need to shape the petal by lifting up the two halves on the front, pushing on the top and bottom, squeezing the loose ends together, and poking out the back.
6. Your options are to sew the ends together, or hot glue them with a little dab
onto a piece of wax paper
Once you have mastered the index card tsumami, you are ready to move onto fabric! Starch your fabric very well before you attempt this. Amaze your friends with personalized hairpieces.
I will post photos when I get some made.