When you get to Nepal spend a day wandering around near the charnel grounds of Pashupatinat. Sit on the bench overlooking the river. (Don't let the monkeys steal your sweater.) When you smell the burning bodies don't innocently tell your other (or self), "It's not THAT bad, really."

Definitely stay to watch as the sun goes down and lights go on around the temple complex. Look across the river. See those sparkling lights on the golden roof?

Preening pigeons.

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