I purchased this Piedmontese red wine, a product of the Nebbiolo grape (as are such storied wines as Barolo), recently in our local liquor store. I had been wanting to try a Gattinara for some time, and this was the only one available. Still, Travaglini is considered a better producer, so I plunked down the $17.

Its bright red color has hints of orange, which surprised me in a wine this young. The aroma was spicy and flowery, with hints of cinnamon. It offered a full and fruity taste, somewhat reminiscent of a lighter California or Washington State Merlot. Subtle tannins led to a pleasant, mid-length finish.

I was a little disappointed by this wine, though it is clearly a well-crafted product. I guess the taste was not entirely what I was looking for, and I expected something a little grapier. Still, it is a nice, light, complex wine, and if you're really into the fruitier Merlots, I'd suggest giving it a try.

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