A column shift is a type of gearshift found on some vehicles (especially trucks, vans, utilities, and many older cars) where the shifter protrudes from the side of the steering column. Most cars with front bench seats will have a column shift, otherwise any potential 'middle seat passenger' could experience 'involuntary fondlement' with every gearchange.
The column shift is usually connected to the gearbox itself through a series of linkages, which (especially in older cars) can be quite fragile. Because the column shift operates less 'directly' on the gearbox than a floor mounted shifter, the 'feel' of the gearbox is much less direct and 'notchy', hence the turn of phrase:
'That damn column shift makes me feel like I'm stirring a cake.' - Me, referring to my father's 1983 Mitsubishi L300 van.