This is a boulder for
climbing located in
Central Park in
New York at 110th strret overlooking
Harlem.
The topo below gives a brids-eye view of the boulder.
The south and west sides are too low to boulder on but the boulder is slanted and the other 3 faces give excellent bouldering,
amongst the best in the park. Facing south climbs are describeed from left to right.
s
e w
n
------
/ .. too low to climb this side
slab / 1 --------
( easy climbing) / ...
/2 --------
\ ......
\ |
\3,4 |
this side \ | too low to climb this side
is more overhanging \ |
\ 5,6,7 |
---------------------------------------
(this side rises right to left
from 1.2m -- 3.5m, great for climbing)
is also overhanging by about 15o)
There are many probles on this boulder and eliminates
(where you purposly leave out a hold to make the problem harder), I am only giving a selection of my favourite
problems here
- 1 An easy slab, there is only one real route up this side. Good for warming up, can be made more interesting by using only one hand (left or right).
- 2 The left arette, a fantastic little problem, start
sitting with your two hand in the small crack at the base of the arette, pull your body into the arette and a series of
pinches leads to a good sloper for the right hand on the face. With determination make a bold pinch for the arette with your left hand, from here either dyno for the bucket at the top or proceeed with more care using a series of small crimps. The exit at the top is nice and putting all the moves
togethr is fantastic. Rated V2-3 Heuco system,
English technical 5c+-6a, French 6c. (see climbing grades)
- 3 Move boldy through the overhang using a series of flat but positive holds. The problem begins at mid heigth, the lower start is V6 and incridibly hard. Starting at mid heigth gives a problem about as difficult as problem 2.
- 4 From the centre of the boulder you can move left and finish on the finish to problem 2. I can't do this and so assume that the grade must be V3+
- 5 Another classic, the right arette. Start low on the sharp flat hold, throw for a good edge on the corner,
either match hands on the edge or pull through (strong)
for the good edge on the right face. Bring the right hand
through and egyptian on the right face, throw for the top
and pull over the edge, the classic problem on the boulder, solid V2.
- 6 This one is fun, place both hands on the big flat hold and throw for the finishing holds on problem 5.
This is a really long reach and I get so close, my hands on the hold five times today but not enough momentum to hold it
(soon soon you will be mine my pretty). I'm really looking foreward to getting this problem, it will be my first V4.
- 7 Start at the very right hand edge of the north
face. Climb the rising traverse (quickly), finish
on the arrette or exit just before this, probabaly V3.
Update: On the third last day of 2000 I sent problem 6,
to my great joy. I knew that on teh saturday there was going
to be a snow storm and sor for three days in a row before the saturday I was out throwing at the problem. On my last attempt I pulled my shirt off, stood in the snow, launched for the hold and held it, matched my hands, up the feet and I was standing on top, fantastic!