Models of Rolex currently in production as of August 15th, 2002:
- Air King: This timepiece is what Rolex considers their entry level watch. Named after the pilots who fought over Britain during World War II, it is the only Rolex (outside of the Cellini line) in production that is not a certified chronometer. However, it should be noted that the standards Rolex holds all of their watches to are actually higher than those required to be a chronometer. The dial size is 34mm and comes with either a polished or finely engine turned bezel. This timepiece is available only in steel with the Oyster band.
- Oyster Perpetual: This timepiece is essentially the steel and gold, and all gold version of the Air King. Like the Air King, the size of this watch dial is 34mm. However, in addition to the Oyster band, the Jubilee bracelet is available for the all gold models. This timepiece is the one Chuck Yeager was wearing when he broke the sound barrier in 1947.
- Date: Essentially, this model is a slightly smaller version of their extremely popular Datejust. The dial size matches the Air King and the Perpetual at 34mm. This watch, as the name implies, does have the date displayed on the dial in the 3-hour position. This model is available in steel, steel and gold, and all gold. The Jubilee band is an option in the all gold model.
- Datejust: In 1945 Rolex came out with the first pressure proof automatic wristwatch that had a self-advancing date. The Datejust is the modern day descendent of that timepiece. The dial is slightly larger than the above models, measuring in at 36mm. By far this watch has the most available options, being available in all three metal categories, and both the Jubilee and Oyster band. Additionally, there are a large number of dials and bezels for the Datejust.
- Turn-o-graph: What makes this watch different from the Datejust is the time lapsed bezel. Originally introduced in 1950, this bezel led to the Submariner in 1953. However, the Turn-o-graph was reintroduced in 1958 and was eventually given the nickname "Thunderbird". This is due to the Air Force awarding the pilots of the Thunderbirds with this particular model of watch. The turn-o-graph is available with either the Jubilee or the Oyster band. The watch is made only in gold and stainless.
- Oyster Quartz Datejust: Unlike most of the Rolex watches, this particular one does not have the perpetual movement. Rather, this timepiece is a quartz watch. However, it should be noted that this is one of the few quartz watches in the world that makes use of a jeweled movement. Eleven synthetic sapphires, to be more precise. The Oyster Quartz is easily distinguishable from the perpetual movements; due to the fact all quartz models make use of the Integral bracelet. The Oyster Quartz falls into the 36mm category, and is available in steel, or steel and gold. Reinhold Messner ascent on Mt. Everest without the use of supplemental oxygen was made while wearing an Oyster Quartz.
- Day-Date: This watch was released in 1956, and was the first automatic, pressure proof wristwatch to display both the date, and the day of the week in full. The timepiece has a dial size of 36mm, and is only available in either all gold, or some combination of gold and platinum. These timepieces are available with a flip lock clasped oyster, or the well-known president bracelet. In fact, the Day-Date is often called the President due to that particular band. The nickname stems from LBJ's consistent wearing of this timepiece.
- Day-Date "Special Edition": The special edition day date models will be either all platinum, or a Tridor-white, yellow, and rose gold. The dial size is larger than the traditional Day-Date, 39mm, and is available only with diamonds. Furthermore, all bezels on the special edition are diamond bezels. The bracelet will always be an Oyster 20mm, which is sometimes referred to as a Masterpiece bracelet. This name came about when the prototype was labeled as "Master Model" during an early showing, and the name stuck.
- Oyster Quartz Day-Date: Essentially the quartz model of the President. All Oyster Quartz Day-Dates will be gold, either white or yellow. The only bracelet for this model is the Integral, however there are a few options. These variations are the Pave, Pyramid, and Karat Integral bracelet.
- Perpetual: The perpetual in the midsize is available in the three standard metal choices: steel, steel and gold, and all gold. The band options are a little more complex however. Essentially, if the band is a ladies bracelet, you can have either the Jubilee, or the Oyster. However, if the band is a man’s band, unless the watch is all gold, the bracelet is available only in the Oyster style. All gold timepieces can have either men’s or ladies Jubilee in addition to the Oyster.
- Datejust: This watch also has available to it all metal choices. An extremely large selection of bracelets is available for this particular watch model. Many of these bracelets are variations of standard band. Examples of these variations include the Super Jubilee, the Jubilee Karat, Jubilee Bicolor, President Tridor, and the President Karat. These variations are available only on the all gold timepieces. Of course, there are also the standard bracelets: the Oyster, Jubilee, and President.
- Datejust "Special Edition": The only watch in the midsize classification that has a 34mm dial as opposed to the 31mm. The special edition Datejust is available exclusively in white gold, and always has the Oyster 17mm bracelet.
- Perpetual: The Lady Oyster is the smallest watch that Rolex makes, with a dial size of only 24mm. The three choices for metal are steel, steel and gold, and all gold. With the Lady Perpetual either the Oyster or the Jubilee band are available.
- Lady Date: Interestingly enough, the Lady Date will be the same size as the Lady Datejust, 26mm. However, the Lady Date is available only in steel. Furthermore, even the bezel will always be steel. The Oyster and Jubilee are the bands that come with this particular timepiece.
- Lady Datejust: This category has perhaps the broadest range of styles. Every Lady Datejust will have some gold or platinum, even if it is only the bezel. With the steel and gold watches the Oyster and Jubilee bands are available. However, with a timepiece that is all gold, there is a much larger selection of bracelets available. These bracelets include: the President, the Karat, the Oyster Karat, the Jubilee Karat, and the President Karat.
- Lady Datejust Pearlmaster: The most extravagant of all the Rolex watches falls into this category. A bit larger than the Lady Datejust, the dial size is 29mm. Every Pearlmaster will be either platinum or gold, and will always have diamonds somewhere on the watch. The bracelet is called a Pearlmaster, or Tridor Pearlmaster, depending on if the gold is all the same color, or a mixture of white, yellow, and rose gold. Furthermore, it is not uncommon at all to find the Pearlmaster band sporting precious gemstones and diamonds.
- Explorer: This watch was created for the first ascent of Everest in 1953. The dial is a black, 35mm dial that says Explorer and has the distinctive triangle at the 12 positioning. There is no date on the Explorer. The bracelet is the Oysterlock, for increased security, since the watch was designed with mountaineers, spelunkers, and other such adventurers in mind.
- Explorer II: In 1972 the Explorer II was introduced. This dial is larger, at 40mm, and comes in both white and black. Furthermore, this timepiece features a 24-hour hand to be used with the fixed, 24-hour bezel. The watch can be reset without stopping the movement to allow for dual time usage. Also, the 24-hour bezel and hand can work in cooperation as a solar compass. Simply hold the watch flat and point the 24-hour hand to the sun. Assuming your watch is set to the accurate time, 12 will be north. As with the Explorer, the bracelet for this watch will be the Oysterlock. Please also note that both the Explorer and the Explorer II only come in all stainless models.
- GMT Master II: In 1983 Rolex introduced the GMT Master II to replace the original 1954 GMT Master. This line was created for use by airline pilots, as it had a rotating 24 hour bezel, and a 24 hour hand. This was created to allow for usage of the watch within two time zones. The GMT Master II addition allowed the time of one hand to be changed without stopping the watch. Like the Explorer II, this watch functions as a compass. The GMT Master II is a large watch, coming in at 40mm and is available in steel, steel and gold, and all gold. In the timepieces with gold, one has the option of getting a Jubilee bracelet, rather than the Oysterlock. This watch is one of the few made by Rolex that has a multi-colored bezel.
- Submariner: When released in 1953, it was the first watch to ever be designed specifically with divers in mind. At a maximum depth of 1000 feet, the Submariner exceeds the standard for all Rolexs-330 ft. This none date version is available only in stainless, and has a dial size of 40mm. The bracelet is the Extension Oysterlock, which allows the bracelet to be expanded for wear over a dive suit. The bezel is a special time-lapse bezel that can only be turned in one direction.
- Sea-Dweller 4000: Implosion will occur before a diver reaches the 4000 feet threshold for this watch. The original Sea-Dweller, the 2000, went to a depth of 2000 feet. The Sea-Dweller is the only dated watch without the 2.5x magnifying cyclops eye. The reasoning behind this is that the eye detaches from the crystal at 2000 feet. Some other features particular to the Sea-Dweller include the helium release valve (which works automatically) and the bracelet extension kit that comes included. The dial will always be 40mm, and black, and the only metal available is steel. The bezel on this timepiece is identical to the one on the Submariner.
- Submariner Date: The Submariner Date is where the Submariner has fun. Like the Submariner, this timepiece has the Extension Oysterlock Bracelet, 40mm Dial, and time-lapse bezel. However, the metal selection includes steel, steel and gold, and all gold, and a number of dial selections are available. The maximum depth is also 1000 feet.
- Yacht-Master: This is the newest model Rolex. First released in 1992, the Yacht-Master was designed for timing yacht races, and as such has a special time-lapse bezel upon it. This is one of the few watches available in a platinum and steel model. Steel and gold and all gold versions are made, and come in three distinct sizes: 29mm, 35mm, and 40mm. However, the 40mm size is not an option for the steel and gold model.
- Cosmograph Daytona: A fairly new timepiece, this watch was released in 1988 and receives its name from the Daytona Raceway. Very distinctive, the bezel has engraved upon it a tachymeter, and the face bears the three cosmograph dials. The two basic functions of these dials are to measure elapsed time, and calculate average speed. The Daytona comes in steel, steel and gold, and all gold. Except for the all gold models, the only band available is the Oysterlock, however, the all gold allows for a special leather band with deployable fliplock clasp. The dial size is 40mm.
- Cosmograph Daytona "Special Edition": Essentially the only thing that makes the "Special Edition" special is the color. All of the special editions will be white gold with the deployable fliplock clasp leather bracelet. The bracelet and dial will always match in color. The four color choices are turquoise, green chrysoprase, pink mother-of-pearl, or yellow mother-of-pearl.
Cellini: This is the "dress line" of Rolex. These models change frequently, with no rhyme or reason. All of the pocket watches that are made by Rolex are part of this line. Every watch within the Cellini line will be made from 18k gold. Leather bracelets are common, but so are all gold bands. A good portion of the Cellini will be automatics, but quartz movements also abound within this grouping.
information culled from:
World of Rolex Seminar Book, 2000
Notes that were take at the 2000 World of Rolex Seminar
Rolex 2002-2003 Catalog
Rolex Cellini Price List Suggested Retail Effective August 15, 2002
Various Alter's Gem Jewelry Training Sessions