Note to Government: Make Love, not war.
Note to Teenagers: Make Music, not love.
Note to Musicians: Music is not war.
Note to Self: There would be no music if lovers never went to war.






I don't want to be a writer anymore.
I'm tired of the self-destruction.
Is it all to justify the pain,
Or to cause it?
Once I asked my dad if he thought there was an end to it.
He was younger than I am now when I did,
And I remember that he said to me,
"No. It never does,"
That back then it brought me such hope.






My TiVO captures a show called "Ghost Hunters."
I like this show.
People go into dark houses and try to capture shadows and mists with digital equipment, all to prove in playback such things occur.

Inevitably, something happens. Most of the time the results are inconclusive. Once in a while the things are so clear we suspect trickery.

A few episodes ago they captured the voice of Princess Caroline saying, "Yes, I hear you. Who's there?" across the decades, the seemingly impenetrable boundary of life and time.

Then they cut to commercial.

We turned off the TV. We went to Costco. We needed to restock our supplies of dried nuts and unsalted butter.






I remember watching the lights in the sky, standing in the airport parking lot under an afternoon rain in Juneau. A brilliant blue white star pierced the cloud deck. After a few moments, I could see the black shadows behind the glare. The red and green wing tip lights. Then the fuselage as the nose tipped slightly upward and the landing gear extended to grab the asphalt.

The rumbling came as the pilot reversed the engines and the plane rolled past and slowed, reached the taxiway, and pivoted toward the terminal.

I remember I waved, not knowing if they were sitting on the left or the right, or if they were even peering out the windows at Alaska.

What were they thinking, then, my three? My children coming to visit after the divorce. Could they see me? I waved harder. I shouted. The plane docked at the gate.

Both hands above my head.

"Hey."

I'm here.

Everything I still loved in the world sitting in row fourteen. My precious cargo.

Could they still see me?






I remember my friend Bill, standing with me in the cold rain outside a restaurant in Los Gatos, right after I told him my wife of 23 years and I were breaking up.

The accomplished author, university fellow, award winner: he asked me, "Do you think it will make you a better writer?"

It seemed insulting - but Bill didn't have a mean streak. So it had to be something else.

"I'm not getting divorced to have more time to write."

"No, I'm sorry. I didn't mean that."

"Because, right now I don't care if I write another word in my life," I said.

"Of course you don't." He laid a hand on my shoulder. "Let's go inside. I'm getting cold."






When I get to the top of the mountain on my bicycle I make a point to talk to the dead people. I thank them for having been in my life when they were. I do not try to capture their responses digitally. It doesn't matter I bring back "proof", and it doesn't matter that I speak to them on a hilltop or in the restroom at my office.

Because time doesn't matter for them, they may already be captured and speaking through some advanced time/space warping device developed in the year 2221. Maybe then people know life and death are as interchangeable as matter and energy.

Or it's all illusion.

If the dead do speak they tell us that in the afterlife they yearn for the one real thing. It's what they say to the ghost hunters, to the mediums, to the priests and witch doctors.

How ironic. It seems it's what I want most to avoid, but spend the most time trying to produce.






Mornings can be the worst. Waking up requires we reset ourselves. We have to bring back the diurnal cycle after we've been floating in timelessness.

I expect to see my bedroom shadows resolve to timeful reality.

I expect to hear my children arguing about the television channel, or who got the last of the sugary cereal.

Once in a while I accidentally say my wife's name.

That's when the ghosts surround me reminding me matter and energy are interchangeable.

And I never want to write again.






"What's wrong?" asks the blond haired girl.

I say, "Nothing," as I have since I could speak. I say, "Nothing," as a six-year old stealing his father's tools. I say, "Nothing," as a four year old drilling holes in the living room floor. I say, "Nothing," as a teenager dropping Molotov cocktails down a storm drain to create admirable fireballs.

I say, "Nothing," because she is not part of that madness and it is cruel to drag her into it.

I say, "Nothing," because it is my past, not hers. "Nothing," is my decision, from the start. "Nothing," is what I do to my seconds, minutes, and earthy years.

Ask the psychics what they get from the other side.

"Nothing," is sitting at the lawyer, agreeing on everything and him saying he has never seen this before and asking if we are sure.

"Nothing," is the end to that life and the beginning to this.

"Nothing," is how effective some of us are at creating the hurt.

"Nothing," is what the Ghost Hunters record on their memory sticks and infrared video.

Because I am the envy of all the disembodied spirits.

"We have proof," says the lead Ghost Hunter. "Listen. It was dark and nobody was around."

"Nothing."

From the ether, clear as a bell.

Day 22 of the German Trip; Saturday - SNOW

Imagine for a moment: you live in a world which never snows and never seems to rain. To find snow in this place you have to travel to a certain part of the country at a certain time of year and even then they tend to have snow machines flinging snow down on the slopes for the skiers. Then imagine going to a place which has snow up to your thighs, that is cold and has bits of very frozen water falling from the air softly onto everything. Imagine a hush of awed reverence. Imagine seventeen teenagers hushed into a simple 'wow'.

No. Imagine this. Bavaria. Flat for long green sections with little brown huts and houses in the distance and a lake or two of perfect blue stillness. Mountains are an idyllic backdrop. The sky is heavy and gray but the mountains are all around us rising up into the clouds. The snow can be seen. We all shiver into our scarves and long socks and jackets. Mountains and snow and greenness and trees, the promise of a world as yet untasted by us all.

After the bus we got on a train. It went up the mountains and then inside of them. The trees, a forest unlike what I have ever seen, started green and mundane. I sat in happy relaxation knowing that soon I would be at the top of a mountain. And then the trees changed. One moment dark green. The next a pale white. The line between the two was so obvious that some trees were cut in half with snow. We had to get onto a cable car to get to the top of the mountain but we ignored the signs and dashed towards a double set of doors. The cold air hit us as we pushed them anxiously aside. Beanies were put on, scarves wrapped tighter and in excited awe we stepped out onto the snow.

It crunched.

We giggled and stepped out. We were scared of it, so different and strange. We couldn't see very far, there was a pole, maybe, down perhaps fifteen meters away that was just a light brown smudge against the clouds and falling snow. Step, crunch step crunch. We reached down and touched it, we caught snowflakes on our hands. For a moment only stillness filled our group. Shocked for once into silence. Whoever knew anything could be so cold, so white, so foreign?

Then someone grabbed a handful and tossed it at someone else. The spell was broken and we pushed our way into the white world. When the cold was too much we dashed inside for just a moment but we couldn't leave it so we shook off the snow and jumped back in. We posed together and posed jumping. We shivered back inside and ran back out. We were loud, laughing and screaming and throwing snow at each other. Photos, photos of everything and jumping and loudness.

We hadn't even reached the top of the mountain yet.

Another journey, now in a cable car to the restaurant and the peak of the mountain. We went up the stairs and found ourselves on a flat outside area. It was foggy so we could barely see the peak of the mountain just a few meters off. The way up had been blocked off due to the bad weather but we didn't mind. Half the group got bored and disappeared back down the mountain to enjoy a world of snow. We stared at the fog and felt we were, literally, the tallest people in Germany.

Austria was pointed out to us and we wandered across the walkway to another country. Fern leaf patterns of ice clenched at the windows and we all shivered with it. I never knew a world could be so quite and cold. We left Austria quickly and looked again at the fog.

Euros were discussed and we found there were two restaurants on der Zugspizte, one in Austria, one in Germany. We looked at the buildings and Austria was closer. 'Pommes' was ordered and laughed at. "French fries is the name." I glowered. Curse me for trying to speak your language you cook-man. Got a latte macchiato and sat down with the chips and ketchup and mayonnaise. The two different sauces disgusted me at first but after I'd tried them for the first time I could no longer imagine chips any other way. A long, lazy lunch was spent staring out the window. Jokes about photos and convincing one of the guys that two of the girls were involved in some way entertained us for a while.

"Let's go back to Germany." I've never been anywhere from where you can walk to another country. Australia is an island, bloated and alone 'twixt the southern seas. A decision like that to be made so simply even here in a lonely icy world was amazing. We sat in Austria and discussed Germany and the invisible border that did nothing to anything. We were on top of a mountain. About to walk back to Germany.

The restaurant in Germany was classer, and the second latte macchiato was a little fancier in a nicer mug on a nicer saucer. Relaxed and happy we sat for a long time.

The trip back down was still full of fun but we were tired. Too much had been seen and done and our minds were still flying with the snowflakes at the top of der Zugspitze. We dreamed of snow. Sometimes, I still do.


Also in Germany: Smoke, alcohol and smoke: Bergisch-Gladbach

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