Family: Solanacae
Genus: lycopersicon
Species: lycopersicum
Cultivar: Brandywine
Brandywine
tomatoes have taken on an mythical
aura. Yes, they are
delicious. Yes, they have funny
potato leaves and thin skins, and yes the fruits, ribbed and pinkish and awkwardly large, may seem
butt-ugly to children raised on megagrocery store tomatoes. Still, they are just not that difficult to grow, and if you grow any tomatoes at all, adding a brandywine or two will be rewarded.
Brandywines can be traced back to 1885, back to Amish farmers, further adding to the mystique.* While the Amish are famous for restoring land and avoiding trappings that may cause rifts in a community, they do not use anything magical in their soil. (Horse manure may do magical things, but still, it is only horse shit.)
Brandywines likely were cultivated long before 1885, under a different name (or perhaps passed on as "those big beefy pink butt-ugly tomatoes with the potato leaves"). Before hybrids became popular, "heirloom" varieties were all that your grandparents knew. Heirloom varieties are open pollinated plants that can be faithfully reproduced from seeds year after year. Buy one packet, and you are set for life.
Today seed companies market heirloom varieties of vegetables as better tasting, though less resistant to diseases. Heirloom strains tend to be less uniform, and (gasp!) less productive than some more recent hybrids. Or say so the experts.
So why do the Amish and other queer folk grow not-so-prolific, finicky plants that do not tolerate travel to market? Well, they taste good. The Amish are religious, but they are not stoics. And, maybe, the marketing of the mystique of this fine plant has twisted its reputation just a bit.
I grow tomatoes in a little
urban patch in northern
New Jersey, a mile or so from
Newark. I grow hybrids and heirlooms. I have two criteria--will it grow? Will I like it? I have tried all kinds of tomatoes--big ones, little ones, red, green, and purple ones. Ribbed or smooth. Pear-shaped, beefsteaks, cherries.
Determinate,
indeterminate, and plenty that just
terminated. I never met a tomato I did not like, but some are more lovable than others.
I do everything wrong. Since I only have about a hundred square feet of soil that gets real sunlight, I plant my tomatoes year after year on the same spot. I compost with diseased plants from years before. According to the experts, I should consider myself lucky if I can coax two fruits out of an heirloom plant.
Year after year my brandies come through. If it's a dry year, well, maybe the yellow pears will peter out, but I'll get 7 to 10 pounds of tomatoes from my brandywine plant. A wet year? Well, the supersonics may wilt early, but I'll get 7 to 10 pounds from brandy. Too cold? The rutgers may rot, but, I'll still get 7 to 10 pounds from my reliable butt-ugly pink ribbed thin-skinned brandywines.
Your great grandparents picked the food they raised partly because they liked it, but mostly because they needed it to live. You are here because your great-grandparents knew how to grow stuff. They did not have time for hobby farming. Your great-grandparents were tough as buzzards. Their favorite plants had to be just as tough.
A brandywine may be finicky if sitting in a 240 acre field with rock-hard tractor-flattened hardpan soil surrounded by 10,000 other brandywine plants propped up with organophosphates, carbamates, chlorpyrifos ,malathion ,atrazine, and metolachlors. They do just fine sitting in a small garden surrounded by kale, basil, lettuce, and fertilized with clamshells, compost, and cow shit.
Tonight we had our first brandywine of the season, a 1 1/2 pound gnarled, ribbed fleshy piece of heaven. It has been a cold, wet summer after a cold, wet spring. Most of my tomato plants are struggling, though we managed a few fruits off the early girl plant before it started to wilt. Before that brandywine quits, I'll get 6 or 7 more fruits just like tonight's. Great taste, predictable production. The only extra work this plant required was plucking of a tomato hornworm who liked brandies as much as I do.
* Or maybe not. Brandywine may have been a commercial term given to a known cultivar to enhance its sales potential, perhaps the erstwhile "Turner's Hybrid."
Sources:
Greg LeHoullier, Brandywine and Company: What We Know and What We Don't (One Person's Opinion)http://www.victoryseeds.com/information/craig_brandywine.html
My garden
Pinetree Garden Seeds is where I get most of my heirlooms. Box 300, New Gloucester, ME 04260, superseeds.com